Garden Machinery
Garden Leisure
- Greenhouse Heaters
- Loungers
- Midgeaters
- Gas Barbecues
- Charcoal Barbecues
- Masonry Barbecues
- Furniture Sets
- Benches
- Greenhouses
- Water and Light
- Garden Sheds
- Gazebos
- Firepits
- Wildlife Boxes
- Rock and Stone
- Weather Vanes
- Rabbit Hutches
- Urns & Planters
- Sundials
- Birdbaths
- Garden Swings
- Climbing Frames
- Croquet Sets
- Wildlife Cameras
- Bird Feed
Water feature – concrete lining
Concrete for ponds is made of 1 part cement to 2 parts clean sharp sand and 3 parts washed gravel. If you are buying in concrete ready mixed you should ask to have a retardant added to it, to slow down its setting time – allowing you time to work with it. Check if bought in ready mix can have a waterproof element added, some manufacturers have a special fluid which can be added to the premix to make it more waterproof in cold weather. Once your pond is dug and the sides have settled, smooth them, and then layer the concrete over them. Remember that it needs to set naturally, which takes from 8 to 24 hours and then to cure. Curing is best done underwater, so once the pond has set, fill it slowly and gently with water and leave for a month – this allows the concrete to cure thoroughly. After three days, however, you can work around the pond, using planks to spread your weight, after three days, while it is curing.
A minimum depth for a pond base is six inches, or up to fifteen inches in severe climates. To make concrete walls you need to use shuttering, unless they are very sloping, or all the concrete will just slide to the base! While the base is still wet, key the areas where the walls will join it with a trowel to make a good join. Position your wooden shuttering and pour your concrete into it. Trowel off the top of the concrete to give a neat top and leave the shuttering in place for around 10 hours.
